The World's Best Cheesecakes: From New York to Japan
1. THE NEW-YORK STYLE CHEESECAKE
The history of New York-Style Cheesecake
The classic New York-style cheesecake, a culinary masterpiece, owes its existence to Arnold Reuben, the owner of the renowned Turf Restaurant at 49th and Broadway in New York City. Reuben claimed that his family was behind the first-ever cream cheesecake recipe, which was a departure from the cottage cheese variations of the era. After being inspired by a cheese pie he tasted at a private event, Reuben set out to perfect his dessert version. His creation soon graced the tables of the Turf Restaurant, winning over the taste buds of its patrons. The allure of New York-style cheesecake lies in its simplicity and indulgent, creamy flavor, which has stood the test of time.
The Science Behind Perfect New York-Style Cheesecake
Cheesecake is a baked custard dessert that is rich and decadent with limited ingredients. For the New York style, a higher ratio of cream cheese to eggs and liquid is critical for achieving a dense, velvety texture. The main ingredient, cream cheese, is a stabilized dairy emulsion rich in milk solids.
Thanks to higher total solids and homogenized fat content, full-fat cream cheeses offer superior elasticity, firmness, and cohesion compared to their fat-free counterparts. Cream cheese is unique because of how it is processed and treated, allowing it to maintain a firm gel at low pH levels. Due to this property, acidic ingredients like sour cream can be added to the batter without causing it to curdle. Sour cream retains moisture but does not thin the batter, keeping its thick texture. This gel structure, facilitated by the protein content, contributes to a cheesecake's smooth texture.
Sugar and eggs are the following key ingredients. Sugar raises the temperature required for egg coagulation, allowing for a long bake time.
Eggs act as emulsifiers, helping to create a smooth and creamy texture. The egg yolks contain lecithin, a natural emulsifier that helps blend the fats from ingredients like cream cheese with water-based components like lemon juice or sour cream. This emulsification process produces a homogenous mixture, contributing to the cheesecake's velvety mouthfeel. The resulting taste is sweet, cheesy, and slightly tangy.
Achieving the Perfect Baking Temperature for Cheesecake
When baking, slow, low heat safeguards against rapid temperature fluctuations during the critical phase of coagulation, where proteins undergo structural changes. This gentle approach minimizes the risk of curdling, where the protein structure contracts and expels moisture, leading to a compromised texture.
A water bath paired with low heat safeguards against rapid temperature fluctuations during the critical phase of egg coagulation, where proteins undergo structural changes. This gentle approach minimizes the risk of curdling, where the protein structure contracts and expels moisture, leading to a compromised texture. A well-coagulated cheesecake boasts a smooth, creamy consistency, while a curdled counterpart tends to be porous and tough. Additionally, water acts as an insulating barrier, shielding the delicate cheesecake from direct heat exposure, ensuring a flawless baking process.
2. THE BASQUE CHEESECAKE
The Art of Making Basque Cheesecake
The burnt Basque cheesecake breaks all the rules: high heat, no water bath, burnt top, and underbaking. However, this creates a luscious dessert with a complex flavor.
La Viña restaurant was founded in 1959 by Eladio Rivera and his family. It became known for its unconventional Basque cheesecake. Eladio's son, Santi, who was a self-taught cook, started experimenting with the recipe in the late 1980s. He drew inspiration from his culinary experiences in Paris and the introduction of cream cheese to Spain. What began as a kitchen experiment gradually gained popularity over the years. It wasn't until the 2000s, with the rise of pintxo tours, that La Viña's cheesecake gained international fame. The help of Instagram and TripAdvisor further boosted its reputation. Santi has since shared the recipe online, embracing transparency and spreading the joy of his creation with the world.
Key Ingredients for Basque Cheesecake Success
Unlike the New York-style, Basque cheesecake has a higher ratio of eggs to cream cheese and the addition of heavy cream over sour cream. The batter is thinner and more liquid-like. In a Basque cheesecake, diluting the egg proteins with water, sugar, and fat molecules (from heavy cream) makes it harder for them to bond and coagulate without concern for curdling, resulting in a tender, creamy, more custard-like texture.
How to Achieve the Perfect Burnt Top on Basque Cheesecake
The Basque Cheesecake's signature burnt top results from caramelization and the Maillard Reaction. During baking, the high temperature causes a chemical reaction between the proteins and sugars on the surface, producing unique flavors, aromas, and colors. Caramelization occurs when sugars are heated and react with water, breaking down and reforming into a complex, sweet, nutty flavor. This process creates a darker color and more complex taste, complemented by the Maillard Reaction, adding depth and intrigue to the flavor profile. No water bath is needed during baking, as the added moisture would interfere with the browning process. The resulting cheesecake is flan-like and complex in flavor, with a melt-in-your-mouth custard center.
3. THE JAPANESE CHEESECAKE
The Evolution of Japanese Cheesecake
Rikuro Ojisan in Osaka was one of the pioneering chains that served the characteristic wobbly, airy, soufflé-style Japanese cheesecake. The cake's popularity surged in the 1970s, fueled by women's magazines featuring cheesecake recipes. By the late 1980s, desserts like tiramisu and cheese-filled steamed buns further solidified cheese's place in Japanese cuisine. Since the 1990s, cheesecake has enjoyed widespread popularity and availability throughout Japan.
Secrets to Perfect Japanese Cheesecake
The Japanese "soufflé" or "cotton" cheesecake uniquely differs from Basque and New York styles. Baked like New York and with a characteristic jiggle like Basque, the Japanese version stands out for its less sweet profile and airy light texture. This cheesecake separates the eggs and whips the egg whites, folding the meringue into the batter to create more air, resulting in a fluffy and delicate texture.
A Japanese cheesecake is made using a stirred custard method, unlike New York or Basque custard-baked cheesecakes. A stirred custard produces a softer texture. Cream cheese and egg yolks are added to a double boiler to control the temperature and rate of cooking. The cream cheese melts into a smooth liquid consistency while the egg yolks thicken. Despite thickening, the mixture remains pourable and does not gel, which is crucial for maintaining the light and airy texture.
Mastering the Art of Meringue for Japanese Cheesecake
As egg whites are whipped, the proteins denature (break apart) and trap air. The proteins in egg whites are hydrophobic, meaning they naturally repel water. Usually, they curl up into tight balls to avoid interacting with water. However, when whisked, these protein regions unfold and form a layer around air bubbles, trapping them in the liquid and creating a stable foam.
The size of the foam in meringue depends on when sugar is added. If sugar is added before denaturation, it results in smaller bubbles, while adding it after denaturation produces larger, more significant foams. Adding sugar after the egg whites bubble and turning white is essential.
Like New York-style cheesecake, this cheesecake is baked in a bain-marie water bath. The water bath mitigates uneven heat distribution within the oven, preventing hot spots and temperature fluctuations. This ensures the cheesecake rises and stays risen without falling or cracking. The resulting cheesecake is airy, rich, and a cross between an angel food cake and a New York-style cheesecake.
